visiting pompeii italy: The Destruction and Rebirth of Pompeii

On that day in 79 AD, the ancient city of Pompeii faced a catastrophic disaster—the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, as scorching volcanic ash and lava instantly engulfed this Roman resort. But this disaster also unexpectedly preserved Pompeii: bread was still in the bakery’s ovens, graffiti on the walls remained clearly visible, and even the final postures of people in their last moments could be seen. Today, let’s step into Pompeii to see how this city ‘frozen’ by the volcano transformed from a tragic site into an archaeological treasure, and what secrets it holds about the lives of ancient Romans ️

Until the catastrophic event of 79 AD, Pompeii was no different from other Roman resort towns.

It was located on the beautiful Bay of Naples, 14 miles (approximately 22.5 kilometers) south of the city of Naples, with luxurious villas, vineyards, and olive groves—all benefiting from the fertile volcanic soil of Mount Vesuvius.

But this active volcano soon erupted, burying the entire town under thick volcanic debris.

Ironically, the disaster that led to Pompeii’s destruction also allowed it to be preserved for centuries.

The excavation of this ‘permanently frozen’ town laid the foundation for modern archaeology.

A quirk of geography

Pompeii was one of the many small towns along the southern coast of Italy, blending influences from ancient Greek and Etruscan civilizations.

The local people originally spoke Oscan, but later, as Roman influence expanded, Latin became the dominant language.

But what these ancient residents didn’t know was that the narrow strip of land where the town was located was actually formed by prehistoric lava flows.

Evidence suggests that Mount Vesuvius had erupted multiple times before, causing similar devastating consequences.

The Hamptons of ancient Rome

By the 1st century AD, in the years before the volcanic eruption, Pompeii and the nearby Herculaneum had developed into prosperous resort towns, summer retreats for the Roman elite.

Wealthy Romans built ornately decorated villas with mosaic artworks, art pieces, and elaborate fountains.

The paved streets were lined with shops, taverns, public baths—and several brothels.

The small town has a population of over 10,000, including wealthy merchants, shop owners, and slaves, forming a diverse social structure.

Gladiators, ready – for a riot

Pompeii’s amphitheater could accommodate 20,000 spectators, and the gladiatorial competitions held here attracted people from surrounding villages to watch, with the audience cheering for blood.

But the most famous incident occurred in 59 AD – a massive riot broke out between the people of Pompeii and those from nearby Nuceria.

What began as insults and taunts quickly escalated to throwing stones and drawing swords, eventually turning into a brawl.

The Roman Senate launched an investigation and punished Pompeii – banning the town from holding gladiatorial games for 10 years.

The signs were there

The devastating volcanic eruption in 79 AD was not the first natural disaster to strike Pompeii.

In 62 AD (or 63 AD, the exact date is uncertain), an earthquake occurred in the Campania region – experts now believe this was a precursor to the greater disaster to come.

In fact, the people of Pompeii had grown accustomed to the frequent earthquakes in their town, so when seismic activity intensified before the eruption, they did not see it as something to worry about.

Vesuvius erupts

On an ordinary day in 79 AD—long believed to be August 24, but recent research suggests it might have been an autumn date like October 24—the fate of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and surrounding villages was completely changed.

Pliny the Younger, a Roman writer who was in the port town of Misenum across the Bay of Naples at the time, left the only surviving eyewitness account.

He wrote that the “cloud” ejected by Mount Vesuvius was “of extraordinary size and shape”—this high-altitude column of volcanic ash is now known as a “Plinian eruption”.

People flee Pompeii in panic

As people were preparing for lunch, fine volcanic ash began to fall over Pompeii, followed by large amounts of white pumice and debris—all ejected from the crater of Mount Vesuvius and blown southward by the wind.

Some townspeople successfully escaped, carrying as many treasures, jewels, or coins as they could; others took refuge in basements as the roofs of houses began to collapse under the weight of the stones.

The danger continues

Debris continued to pile up outside the doors and windows of Pompeii’s houses, trapping the residents—volcanic ash filled the air, making it impossible to breathe.

But an even greater danger was yet to come.

In just a few hours, a fast-moving current of hot gas, lava, and toxic gases—known as a “pyroclastic flow”—erupted from the volcano, engulfing the entire town and turning it into a scorching hell.

Wave after wave of pyroclastic flows cascaded down from the fiery summit of Mount Vesuvius, with temperatures soaring above 572°F (approximately 300°C), leaving no survivors.

Desperate to escape

Later discoveries revealed many heartbreaking stories: people attempting to escape the deadly lava flows but failing, with many still clutching small amounts of silver or bronze coins, or a few of their most precious possessions, hoping to sustain themselves during their escape.

Near the city gate, a woman was discovered holding a golden statue of Mercury (the god of speed); another finding was three horses harnessed and ready to carry their owners to safety—but they had apparently waited too long and ultimately failed to escape the town.

Herculaneum was hit too

Pompeii is more famous and attracts more tourists, but its close neighbor Herculaneum was actually closer to the foot of Mount Vesuvius and suffered a similar fate.

In Herculaneum, many people tried to hide or flee to the beach for refuge, but they could not escape the superheated volcanic ash and lava flows.

Although it sounds terrifying, scientists believe that the extreme heat may have caused their blood and brain tissue to boil directly, and even transformed tissues into glass.

Darkness Descended (A darkness came)

The teenage Pliny the Younger witnessed all this from what seemed to be a safe distance, but he also fell into a panic.

At first, he and his mother stayed in Misenum, but later neighbors begged them to flee together, joining the crowds of people on the streets seeking shelter.

He later wrote in a series of letters to the Roman historian Tacitus: “We had scarcely sat down when darkness came upon us—not the darkness of a moonless or cloudy night, but as if a room had been shut up with all lights extinguished. You could hear the shrieks of women, the wailing of infants, and the shouting of men.”

The World’s Last Unending Night (One last unending night for the world)

Pliny the Younger’s eyewitness account not only gives us much information about Pompeii but also vividly shows the chaos and confusion as people scrambled to escape—they looked back at the approaching volcanic cloud, despairing of survival.

He wrote: “Some people were so afraid of death that they even prayed for death to come. Many raised their hands to pray to the gods, while more believed that the gods no longer existed, that this was the world’s last unending night.”

Pliny the Elder’s Rescue (Pliny the Elder to the rescue)

The 17-year-old Pliny the Younger stayed by his mother’s side, helping her escape, while his uncle Pliny the Elder (shown as a statue in the image) bravely ventured into the dangerous situation.

Pliny the Elder was a famous naval commander and an ally of Emperor Vespasian. He led a fleet to the town of Stabiae, attempting to rescue friends trapped there.

He successfully arrived at the town, but by the next morning, falling volcanic debris trapped him on the beach.

He was caught by volcanic toxic gases—though newer theories suggest he suddenly had a stroke or heart attack—and ultimately died.

Pompeii’s secrets laid bare

The tragic story of Pompeii was gradually forgotten, and the remains of its residents were deeply buried underground.

It was not until the late 16th century that this site was accidentally discovered when Swiss architect Domenico Fontana was laying the foundation for a building in the Sarno River valley.

Even so, it wasn’t until 1709, when another accidental discovery revealed the location of Herculaneum, that people began to connect the dots.

Within 40 years, the first excavations began, and these long-forgotten secrets gradually came to light—laying the foundation for modern archaeological research.

Treasures through time

This was not a systematic archaeological investigation, but rather a small group of explorers digging in the Campanian countryside, hoping to find ancient artifacts.

Their goal was more to find artworks or other ancient treasures to display, rather than pursuing academic research.

Spanish Army General Roque Joaquin de Alcubierre and Swiss architect Karl Weber led these sometimes chaotic excavations, through layers of rock, soil and sediment—the very materials that had hidden and almost perfectly preserved the town for centuries.

Digging for victory

The initial excavation results were not impressive, but in 1755, the “praedia of Julia Felix” was unearthed.

This vast complex included rental apartments, public baths, and beautiful gardens—with waterfalls, pools, and exquisite frescoes depicting daily life in Pompeii.

Notably, the owner of this estate was a woman, a discovery that sparked extensive discussion in academic circles.

This foreshadowed more discoveries to come, so King Charles VII of Naples issued a ban on the export of artifacts—perhaps to keep them in the Royal Palace Museum in Portici.

Up Pompeii

For many years, this site was only known as “La Civita” (meaning “the city”), because no one could determine which town or city it corresponded to—but a discovery in 1763 changed this situation.

An inscription was discovered that read: “Rei publicae Pompeianorum” (meaning “the republic of the Pompeians”), and scholars were finally able to connect this site with the tragedy of Pompey recorded in literature (including the description by Pliny the Younger).

This also put an end to some more reckless excavation methods, making people realize the importance of protecting this unique site.

Go Retro for the Romans

These discoveries caused a sensation in Western society in the 18th century, sparking renewed interest in antiquities, coinciding with the rise of neoclassical architectural style, and people also began to develop a new interest in all things ancient.

Historians believe this is directly related to the excavation of Pompeii—the exquisite villas and frescoes drove a design trend: wealthy British elites began to build rooms imitating this classical style, and architects such as Robert Adam and Sir John Soane also began to use these elements in their works.

庞贝启发艺术家（Pompeii inspires artists）

The eruption of Mount Vesuvius inspired countless artistic works that recreate the dramatic scenes of Pompeii’s destruction—though with varying degrees of accuracy.

These works both catered to the public’s interest in this tragic story and further sustained that interest.

Among them were French artist Pierre-Jacques Volaire and British painter Joseph Wright of Derby, who created more than 30 works with Pompeii as their theme, one of which is shown in the picture, titled “A View of Vesuvius from Posillipo, Naples”.

Becoming a tourist hotspot

The continued interest in Pompeii made it a stop on the “Grand Tour”—a rite-of-passage European journey for young people from the upper classes of countries like Britain, who also became the first tourists to visit these ancient ruins.

Unlike Rome’s magnificent architecture, the ongoing excavations of Pompeii revealed details of daily life—from the unfinished bread in bakery ovens to the graffiti still clearly visible on the walls—making it later become the world’s first open-air museum.

年轻的新锐考古学家（A young upstart archaeologist）

Much of what we know about Pompeii is thanks to the efforts of Italian archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli.

He took over the site in the 19th century and developed groundbreaking new techniques.

One of Pompeii’s most iconic symbols is a series of plaster casts that recreate the victims’ final moments—this was precisely Fiorelli’s achievement.

He discovered voids in the dense shell formed by volcanic ash and rock, inferring that these voids were left behind after organic matter decayed.

By pouring plaster of Paris into the voids and then carefully removing the surrounding volcanic ash, he recreated the facial expressions, clothing, and final poses of the Pompeians in heartbreaking detail.

Must-see attractions in Pompeii (What to see in Pompeii)

After decades of excavation, most of Pompeii’s key landmarks have been unveiled—including the magnificent amphitheater, which is one of the oldest surviving amphitheaters.

For many years, countless gladiatorial competitions were held here, and the walls still bear traces of paint from posters that once advertised these events or highlighted certain participants (the celebrities and sports stars of that time).

The forum is also a must-see attraction.

This enormous square was once the center of public life, where people shopped, visited temples dedicated to Apollo, Venus, and Jupiter, and chatted about the latest gossip.

Who lives in a house like this?

In addition to public buildings, there are many private homes and villas to visit here, giving us a deeper understanding of the lives of the Roman elite.

Highlights include the “House of the Small Fountain” – which features a beautiful fountain decorated with mosaics in its garden; and the “House of the Faun” – named after a bronze statue of a dancing faun in its entrance hall (the building now contains a replica, with the original housed in the National Archaeological Museum of Naples).

Some things never change

When exploring Pompeii, the most peculiar feeling is discovering the similarities between ancient and modern behaviors—after nearly 2000 years, human living habits haven’t changed much.

At the entrance of the “House of the Tragic Poet”, a mosaic pattern reads “cave canem” (meaning “beware of the dog”), and such warnings can be seen in many places in Pompeii, identical to the “beware of dog” signs at doorsteps today.

Many walls are also carved with graffiti, some showing off romantic histories, some looking for stolen items, and some particularly life-like: “On April 19th, I baked bread”—just like posts on modern social media sharing sourdough bread making…

庞贝入选世界遗产（Pompeii earns UNESCO status）

For centuries, the whole world has recognized the cultural value of the ancient ruins of Pompeii. In 1997, Pompeii, along with nearby Herculaneum and the Villa Oplontis ruins in the modern town of Torre Annunziata, were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.